Don’t wait to use the good stuff.

Chinese New Year Breakfast

Years ago, when I was a young mom, I used to save all the “good” stuff for a “special occasion.” Sadly, things were rarely special enough. Maybe Christmas, a birthday or two. And then when I went to get out the special thing, whether it be a special cake mix mailed by a friend, or a special dress, it would be damaged and no longer useable.

The worst was when I moved from Hilo to Mountain View. I carefully packed hundreds of rare dolls my family had collected for generations. Same for crystal glassware, silver plate flatware, and embroidered linens. I trucked them up to the new house, and carefully put them in the basement to store for when the new house should be finished. I had decided that the housewarming would be “special” enough to get everything back out.

Years went by. We met with delay after delay. I got pregnant and added a little girl to our family of three. Finally one Christmas I decided that the house was finished enough that we could decorate and have a “special” Christmas. I lugged the boxes to the new house.

Every single one had been chewed through by rats. Almost all of the dolls were destroyed. The crystal glassware suffered much breakage as the rats has chewed up the packing, causing it to shift and the glassware to fall within the boxes, the long stems of the wine glasses shattering the fragile bowls of their neighbors. The silver was lifted off the plated flatware, destroyed by rat urine. The linens were chewed into rat nests.

I cried as I threw away what had been thousands of dollars worth of collectable things, and four generations of family history. My mother never let me forget it.

I salvaged what I could of the porcelain dolls, made them new bodies and clothing, and gave them to my toddler to play with.

Many people who saw her playing with the dolls remarked on how I should save them “for special occasions.” If the experience taught me anything, it is that every moment we are with those we love, it is a special occasion. I would rather every porcelain doll was damaged by being “loved to death,” than that they be nesting material for the rats.

And so, for Chinese New Year, I give myself a breakfast of leftovers on my Nana’s antique Rose Canton dishes. Many of the original set have broken over the years, so I haunt antique shops and e-bay to find replacement pieces. Thus, the set has pieces that range from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century. Not long from now, the oldest pieces will have seen 200 years of use!

Of course I am careful how I use them. Food should never come into contact with the bright white lead-enhanced glazes. And there probably are other glazes that are deadly, as well. In those pieces, I set a doily and individually wrapped foods.

Last night, my husband asked if I was sure I wanted to use the pieces, as they might be broken. Yes. I do want to use them. If I cannot enjoy and share their beauty, I would rather pass them on to someone who can.

So, as I wash and put them away for future special occasions – those times that we share with those we cherish – I will be thinking of the next post – some yummy Chinese foods. After all, this is a cooking blog!

Gung hee fat choy! May the Year of the Rabbit bring you blessings and joy!

Repairing Pāpale Pākē, a simple papier-mâché fix

Image showing the inside of a duoli

Part of growing up local is learning to, as my Nana used to say, “use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without.”

As a result, I find that I derive a lot of inner satisfaction and peace from refurbishing and restoring old things, making them useful again.

After some 30 years of heavy use, my mother-in-law’s old nón lá and my old dǒulì were so beat up they were getting unusable. The outer weavings were cracked and broken, letting the inner weavings warp and lose stability. I probably could throw them away and buy new, but I love the memories attached to these. So. . . papier-mâché to the rescue!

I saturated them in marine-grade wood glue, then applied torn paper bags which had been soaked in the same. After they were thoroughly dried, I used a waterproof spray varnish on them. Now to just add new tie scarves, and they are ready for another 30 years of use!

My dǒulì after papier-mâché and varnishing.
My Mother-in-law’s nón lá after refurbishing.
Me in my dǒulì pre-repairs. Note the bamboo edge un-edging! We are at my Dad’s hale. My husband is down in the crater weed-wacking.

Fried Rice

This image illustrates the recipe on this page

Working on my Dad’s style of fried rice, which continues to evolve to meet the changing times and fridge contents. We don’t actually have a recipe. It’s more of a method, as in our family, fried rice is made from all the little bits of things you have saved in the fridge because they are too good to toss out.

Don Yuen’s Fried Rice

  • cold leftover rice
  • sesame oil
  • leftover meat
  • pipikaula* or other smoked meat
  • garlic
  • round onion
  • Szechuan pepper
  • leftover vegetables
  • eggs
  • spring onions / green onions

Some people insist on specific types of long grain rice. We just use whatever happens to be left over from the night before. Put the rice in a big bowl and fluff it up a bit so it can dry while you are getting ready for it.

Julienne the meat, garlic, onion, and vegetables and set them in separate bowls.

Mince the green onions.

Beat the eggs.

Put a little sesame oil in a heavy skillet or wok. As it is warming, add the leftover meats and pipikaula.

Heat so that the fat renders. When the fat starts rendering, add the garlic, onions, and Szechuan pepper. Scrape to the side of the skillet or wok.

Pour the eggs into the fat and make a thin omelette. When it is cooked through, remove it from the pan and set aside.

Turn up the heat and give the meat a stir. When a drop of water dances in the pan, add the rice a little at a time so that it lightly toasts as it is added. Keep stirring and turning the rice as you add it. When all the rice is added in, then add the vegetables.

While the vegetables are heating in the rice, cut the egg into narrow strips about two inches long. Add the egg to the rice. Toss gently so it is well mixed. Garnish with green onions. Also, you can serve the whole green onions on the side with a little salt for dipping.

Serve with your favorite chili sauce.

*Pipikaula gets its name from the Hawaiian words Pipi (beef) Kaula (rope). In the old days, flank steak would be cut into long ropes, soaked in a sauce of shoyu, ginger, garlic, peppers, etc. and then hung in the smokehouse to cure.

Spicy Chicken Feet, Home-style Street Food

Spicy Chicken Feet Home-Style Street Food

I like to buy chicken feet to make bone broth. Usually I get them from The Locavore Store or from Puna Chicks. One day I decided to set some aside to eat as a snack. Well, I posted the pix on-line and after suggestions from friends, the snacking got a bit carried away and I ended up with a huge bowl of incredibly tasty spicy chicken feet! I’m going to claim it as Chinese because it tastes like my memories of eating Chinese food with my grandfather. But the suggestions came from Chinese, Korean, Japanese, and Vietnamese e-friends on Facebook! 💖

To a bowl of cooked chicken feed add:

  • chili garlic sauce
  • mashed preserved black bean
  • a dash of dark soy sauce
  • some minced ginger

Cook again until you can’t wait any longer.

Garnish with spring onions.

Jook, a perfect soup for cold rainy days

Image of jook, rice congee

Jook (also known as congee) is a family affair. It’s made from the bones of the bird you ate as a family, everyone helps to cut up the giblets and scraps, and everyone takes a turn at watching the pot. At least, that’s how I was raised that it should be. Now, it is only two of us and our Fur Boi in the house. My father lives in his house with my stepmom, and my daughter lives in her house with her family, so such family-style cooking is rare these days.

I was talking on the phone with my dad this morning and I told him I would bring him jook that I had made from our Christmas bird. He was sad. “Oh, I saved all the giblets so we could make it together.” I must find pídàn, salted duck eggs, and fresh duck eggs to take in humility when I visit! Also good Scotch whisky.

Everyone I grew up around makes jook using broth, meat, and giblets to simmer the rice. I was in my 40s before I ever learned about “white jook” (congee)! My family are Nam Long from Zhongshan who began immigrating to Hawaiʻi around 1840, so our recipes date from the mid-1800s and morphed depending on what was available.

Jook

In a large stock pot or slow cooker, cook up turkey and/or chicken carcass with giblets. When the meat falls off, pick it apart and reserve in a separate bowl. Continue to cook the carcass until the bones soften. Smash them up thoroughly and continue to cook another hour or so. Strain the broth through a colander.

Add the meat and giblets minced fine, some chopped round onions, and crushed garlic to the stock. Add rice.

Continue to simmer until the rice “melts” and the jook becomes smooth and creamy, but you can still see grains.

Serve with minced chicken livers, thin slices of lup cheong, pídàn (lime-preserved egg), salt duck egg, minced mushrooms, minced scallion or spring onions, thin slices of char siu, or whatever other condiments you would like.

illustration of condiments for jook
A platter of condiments ready to be added to jook.

How to make “Old School” Haam Ning Mung

Illustration of t-shirt for sale

Love the T-shirt? Click here! Your purchase helps support this website!

Here are the instructions for Haam Ning Mung, Chinese Salt Lemon, as I learned from my grandmother:

Collect a bunch of limes (or lemons) and scrub well. Place a layer of them in a large glass jar. Add enough rock salt to just cover. repeat the layers of salt and lemon until the jar is full. Put on the lid. A plastic lid is best.

Place the jar on the roof of your carport or other accessible sunny place that the cats won’t knock it off. (It’s heavy, but they will try!)

Let sit all summer. Bring inside if you get snow. They will be useable in 6-12 months of sunshine. They are better after 2-3 years. There is no upper age limit. They just keep getting better.

In addition to seasoning certain dishes (they may be listed in ingredients as Velvet Lemon) and as a snack, they are use as a sore throat remedy. Simply suck on a small piece of the peel to stimulate salivation and ease sore throat. It also helps replace electrolytes lost due to illness.

If you keep it a long time, eventually you will have a lot of juice in the bottom of the jar. This can be used as a glaze on duck, as sore throat syrup, etc.

Hawaiʻi variations:

* Add li hing mui powder before setting to ferment

* Add licorice football before setting to ferment

* Cut lemons/limes in half and squeeze, reserve the juice for other things. Put a spoonful of sugar inside each half, then pack in jar as normal.